August 2014

[Submitted by Allan Simm, General Manager, Oxford Small Business Support Centre]

Up long before the sun, Shep Ysselstein can be found each morning in his Oxford County cheese plant, carefully overseeing the traditional cheese-making process, perfected in the Swiss Alps 500 years ago.

“We make our cheeses by hand the old-fashioned way,” says Ysselstein.  “That means it’s more flavourful, the texture is superior … in the end, in the food business, it’s all about the flavour.”

It’s been a recipe for success for Gunn’s Hill Artisan Cheese;

its legion of loyal customers can’t get enough of the unique fare.  And its legend is growing, as Ysselstein’s signature product, Five Brothers Cheese – a tasty mix of Gouda and Swiss Appenzeller – recently earned top honours in the firm cheese category at the Canadian Cheese Grand Prix.

“Being a new player on the cheese scene, that really gave us some credibility as a cheese maker with top-quality cheese,” said Ysselstein.  “Since we won, people have been very eager to try it.” 

In addition to the Five Brothers brand, Gunn’s Hill has two other distinct offerings on its menu:  Oxford’s Harvest, which features Mutchli, a relatively unknown Swiss cheese; and Handeck, a more traditional Swiss cheese.

“I had to come up with something unique and different,” he said.  “I had the opportunity to work in the Swiss Alps making cheese, and I use what I learned there and elsewhere to create cheeses that I would like to eat.”

While business is strong – Gunn’s Hill cheese is now available in specialty stores all over Oxford County and, further afield in Loblaw’s and Sobeys stores – the enterprise would never have got beyond the dream stage without the help of the Oxford Small Business Support Centre, one of several federally-funded Community Futures Development Corporations (CFDCs) in the Western Ontario Community Futures Development Corporation Association.

CFDCs offer a range of programs and services supporting community economic development and small-business growth.  These community-based, not-for-profit organizations are staffed by professionals, and are each governed by local volunteer Boards of Directors familiar with their community’s needs, concerns and future development priorities.  (For more information, visit wocfdca.com)

“If it wasn’t for (the CFDC), I couldn’t have done it,” said Ysselstein.  “I was able to qualify for a Community Futures loan and a loan from the Sand Plains Community Development Fund … that was instrumental in being able to start my business.”

Like any manufacturing venture, start-up costs – in physical space and equipment – are significant.  He needed financial support to develop the 6,000-square-foot plant and retail store.

“And, they understand business and realize cash is king,” he said, noting their more flexible pay-back schedule is tailored to the customer and his needs.  “Their approach is quite refreshing.”

For now, Ysselstein is working hard to keep up with soaring demand.  He knows he will soon have to invest money for more equipment and to create more storage space, in which the cheese can be aged.

“More equipment would allow us to maximize production in the plant.  One day, we want to be able to use all the milk that is produced by the 120 cows on our family farm … that’s what we’re working toward,” he said.

Though he wants to be careful not to grow too quickly – and not to compromise the quality of the cheese – demand is high.

“I know the market is there and wants our product,” said Ysselstein.  “Every week, a restaurant or store calls and wants to try our cheese and offer it to their customers.  I’m constantly amazed.”

People are also amazed when they visit Gunn’s Hill, just minutes from Woodstock.  Ysselstein said people love to tour the factory, sample the tasty offerings and play cheese maker for a day.

“About 30% of our sales come from our store here,” said Ysselstein, who was named the Access to Capital Entrepreneur of the Year in 2013.  “We also have gift baskets and make cheese trays that are great for functions.”

Not everyone can visit the unique operation, so Ysselstein often takes the show on the road, attending wine and food shows, and offering tasting events at stores and restaurants far and wide.

“We’re really proud of our product … we want as many people as possible to try it,” he says.  “Once they do, they’re usually hooked.”

For more information, visit gunnshillcheese.ca or call 519-424-4024.